Happy Easter!

I came to Calcutta yesterday. I am here to do some research on Subhas Chandra Bose (if anything turns up, I’ll be sure to post — are you waiting with bated breath?? It’s pretty interesting, actually!). I timed my visit to coincide with Easter so that I could attend services at St. Paul’s, the Anglican cathedral built in 1847, the first Episcopal church in Asia.

The church seats between 800 and 1000 people and it was completely full. Attending the Easter service was a bit like being in Canada — familiar… but different! The service began at 8:30 a.m. and was conducted in English (I was one of maybe 5-6 Anglos there). A Bengali service was scheduled for 10:30 — I should have gone to that too, it would have been interesting. (I gave a miss to the 6:30 a.m. “sunrise” service…) Although there was not much music, we did sing four hymns, including “The Strife is O’er,” and “Lift High the Cross.” Very moving to sing these familiar hymns in such a different setting.

In Hindu temples it is the custom to take off one’s shoes and I noticed that many people had taken off theirs. Another example of Indian culture in this distinctly Anglican setting was the Eucharist — as soon as the Eucharist began, people immediately popped out of their chairs and made their way to the center aisle. (This was old style seating, with a long desk that ran in front of each row, and individual kneelers, which were not used). Standing in line can be a rough and ready experience in India — you snooze, you lose — so I couldn’t help but wonder how this would translate out. With a few exceptions (!), it was quite orderly!

Given that alcohol is so difficult to find here (have I complained about that before? I think I have complained about that before) I was curious about whether they would use wine for the Eucharist. When the priest got to me, he (no female clergy at this service) asked me something. I said “yes” (when in doubt, say yes) because what I think he must have asked me is whether I wanted him to intinct the communion wafer. (My spell-check is rejecting “intinct”.) Anyway, this is when my question was answered — he dipped the wafer in the chalice and put it on my tongue and it was…. well, I think it must have been vinegar!

Recessional. No photography allowed in church, folks. But I wasn’t the only disobedient one among the flock.
After the service a tea reception was held in this covered outdoor area, called “the porch”.
I loved their beautiful Easter saris! The picture doesn’t do justice to the pale pink one, a shimmery shantung silk.
At the reception a woman was selling these little Easter baskets — I donated some rupees and got this chocolate-filled delight (lined with Christmas wrapping paper, I discovered after I gobbled down a couple of chocolates). What I thought were jelly beans turned out to be pieces of colored plastic foam!
And finally, let us pause to consider why there is an Anglican cathedral in Calcutta in the first place: the tainted cause of Empire.


One thought on “Happy Easter!

  1. Thank you for disobeying the rules against photos! How very interesting. Who knew so many Christians! I wonder who they were?

    This must have taken place before news broke about the Sri Lankan tragedies. We are grieving here, but I imagine even more so in India. Awful.

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