…because who can resist a cow pun?
As you no doubt know, cows are a sacred animal in Hinduism, symbolic of the divine and of the abundant generosity of nature. As a result, they are “protected” in the sense that they are never slaughtered or eaten — at least by Hindus. Since some 80% of Indians are Hindu, the cow occupies a special position in Indian culture. This translates out in a number of different ways. It means, for example, that it is difficult to purchase beef in any market — I know it is “available” in some areas (i.e. predominantly Muslim areas) but I have never – not once – seen beef in India. McDonald’s exists in India, but Big Macs do not. And since Muslims do not eat pork, pork is also not easily available in India. (And since neither Hindus nor Muslims drink alcohol, alcohol is also not easily available in India — although it is much more available than beef or pork.) So what to get at McDonald’s if not a Big Mac? How about a chicken Maharaja Mac, or a McAloo Tikki (sandwich with a fried potato and peas patty), or a McSpicy Paneer sandwich?

The veneration of cows is most noticeable not from the absence of beef, but from the presence of cows on the roads. I see many (many!) cows each day here and so I’ve had more occasion to think about cows in the past couple of months than I ever have before. In particular, I think about cows on roads.


I always expect the cows to move out of the way of vehicles, which just shows how inexperienced I am. A cow at rest remains at rest; a cow in motion at a constant velocity remains in motion at a constant velocity. The drivers know Newton’s first law and plan accordingly. That is what happened in the scene above (the truck went around) though unfortunately I do not have the “after” picture. Goats, by the way, do not follow Newton’s law and they can be a challenge to drivers — changing direction and speed capriciously, though not in any discernible reaction to the vehicle. Dogs are okay because they are smart enough to get out of the way of on-coming vehicles (usually).
Cows roam around all day. At night they go home. So although they seem like “stray” cows, they do have homes. Their owners let them out early the morning, they forage for food all day (slim pickings, as you can see in the photos above) and then get rounded up at night.

Obviously, some places are better than others for foraging. The cows who live close to campus for example, have a much better “spread” than those who live in my neighborhood. Apparently they are not really supposed to be on campus — the campus security personnel can round them up and put them in a holding pen and only release them to their owners once their owners cough up a couple hundred rupees. I’ve never seen a holding pen much less cows in a holding pen!
The cows are sacred, but also valuable because they provide milk. The cows provide milk, mind you, the bulls do not. So the bulls are mostly useless unless they are needed for plowing or you want more baby cows. But they can’t be killed, so what to do with them? From what I’ve heard, people mostly abandon the bulls — and they are left on their own to just forage for themselves. It is a mitzvah (brings good karma, if I may recklessly mix religious tenets) to feed cows, so people will often put out kitchen scraps and other stuff for them to eat. (I don’t buy “local” — raw — milk. Although it is easily available, you can’t help but wonder what these gals have eaten!)

It seems like it might be dangerous to be wandering around amongst a bunch of cows and bulls, but they all seem pretty docile. A while back I was walking along and a cow was walking toward me. I wondered, “Who has right of way?” Suffice it to say, it was not me.
Great blog post, Mary! It reminds me: We wondered about cattle management and traffic rules – and cultural differences – across India. So few cows in Darjeeling! And then those herds in Rajasthan.
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It would be so horrible to hit a cow with your car! The McDonalds food sounds pretty good though. When do you come home?
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I get back the end of May — shall I bring you a Maharaja Mac??
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Would anyone dare complain about cows as being a nuisance? Like, we love our bald eagles, but there was just an article about what a nuisance they’ve become in Seattle. I’m also surprised by your last shot — the open space. How far out of town was that? And how are the rice fields protected from all the rooming animals?
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My hunch is that people wouldn’t complain, because in general people are a lot calmer (in a way) about nuisances. For example, when the level crossing goes down for a train, it usually goes down about 3-4 minutes before the train comes, and really blocks traffic. But no one seems to care or get frustrated about it. I would say that people really are much more complacent (or accepting?) of many of life’s inconveniences here — nothing is “This should have been done yesterday,” everything is, “It’ll get done eventually, don’t stress.” Yet daily life can be quite stressful here (noise, pollution, power cuts, etc.) So to answer your question, I don’t think people would complain. Yet, in Sikkim there were no cows on the roads so it seems that there must be ordinances there requiring people to keep them out of public areas. Makes a huge difference in terms of efficiency of transportation. I think it would be a great topic for Justin for a transportation econ project — impact on road transportation of keeping cows off the roads.
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https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/2018/07/16/amp-stories/why-india-has-million-stray-cows-roaming-country/
Sounds like a really interesting research project!
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Interesting article, Katie, thanks. And it sounds like the 5.2 million cows she writes about in the photo essay are “strays,” not owned by anyone. You asked how they keep the cows out of the rice paddies — scarecrows for one thing, but more importantly, constant vigilance. Same for the tea gardens, as far as I can tell.
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Yes, I thought that was interesting. People can’t afford to take care of them in their old age (or else if they are bulls), so they apparently abandon them. There are lots of research projects here Moo-ry!
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Good thing you figured out who had the right of way!
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I’ve loved reading your observations and checking out the stunning photos you’ve taken, from the sneak peak of the Himalayas to that mellow cow chilling in the middle of the road near your flat. The attitude – “It’ll get done eventually, don’t stress” – is one I’d love to internalize. And, no cow meat at McDonald’s…imagine if that kind of moo-vement spreading in the USA?!
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